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Home » Paris 1920: Jazz, Salons, and Midnight Confessions

Paris 1920: Jazz, Salons, and Midnight Confessions

October 15, 2025 by Nick Sasaki Leave a Comment

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Introduction by Sylvia Beach

Paris in 1920 was not just a city—it was a heartbeat, a crossroads where artists, dreamers, and outcasts came to reimagine the world. I watched them pass through my bookshop, Shakespeare and Company, each carrying the weight of their own visions: Hemingway with his terse truths, Joyce with his labyrinthine words, Stein with her firm commandments, Picasso with his restless sketches, Miller with his riotous laughter, and Anaïs Nin with her diaries that seemed to whisper secrets from the soul.

And there was Nick Sasaki, not merely a visitor but a companion, weaving between these lives as if Paris had invited him to listen, to question, to carry their voices forward. What he saw in a single day was the city’s entire paradox: discipline and chaos, form and freedom, intellect and desire. This was Paris as I knew it—alive, fractured, whole.

(Note: This is an imaginary conversation, a creative exploration of an idea, and not a real speech or event.)


Table of Contents
Introduction by Sylvia Beach
Part 1 — Morning: The Café Awakens
Part 2 — Afternoon: The Salon and the Confession
Part 3 — Late Afternoon: The Studios and the Streets
Part 4 — Evening: Jazz and Cabaret Debates
Part 5 — Midnight: Walk Along the Seine
Final Thoughts by Sylvia Beach

Part 1 — Morning: The Café Awakens

The streets of Montparnasse are already buzzing, bicycles clattering over cobblestones, the faint scent of fresh baguettes floating from corner bakeries. You push open the door of Café de Flore, and the hum of voices instantly wraps around you.

At one side, Gertrude Stein is seated firmly, surrounded by Picasso’s sketches and a sharp-tongued certainty. She greets you with a nod, her voice steady:
Stein: “Nick, you must decide whether your art makes form or follows it. That is the only question that matters.”
She gestures to the notebook in your hand, almost daring you to defend its pages.

Not far away, Hemingway scratches fiercely in his notebook, occasionally looking up to mutter:
Hemingway: “Don’t let Stein frighten you. She talks in riddles. Write what’s true and cut the rest. Truth lasts longer than form.”

Then the door swings open, and the atmosphere shifts. Henry Miller enters, brash, laughing, his coat wrinkled from a late night. Behind him, Anaïs Nin drifts in, her presence soft but magnetic, her diary clutched to her chest. The café’s energy bends around them.

Miller: “Stein wants you to carve marble with a chisel, Nick. I say take your hands, take your body, take the dirt itself—make art out of life as it is, filthy and holy at once.”

Anaïs settles beside you, lowering her voice so only you can hear.
Anaïs Nin: “Discipline is important, but intimacy is more dangerous—and more alive. Write what you fear to confess, and you will find yourself.”

For a moment, you feel suspended between worlds:

  • Stein’s demand for structure, legacy, permanence.

  • Hemingway’s stripped-down call for truth.

  • Miller’s insistence that art is inseparable from lived chaos.

  • Nin’s invitation into the vulnerable, erotic heart of creation.

The café is no longer just a morning stop—it’s a crossroads. You sip your coffee slowly, aware that choosing whom to follow today might shape not just your art, but your soul.

Part 2 — Afternoon: The Salon and the Confession

After leaving Café de Flore, you make your way toward Gertrude Stein’s apartment at 27 rue de Fleurus. The salon is already alive: the walls dripping with paintings—Picasso’s angular experiments, Matisse’s bold colors, Cézanne’s meditations on form. The air feels weighty with importance, as if every word spoken here will echo into history.

Stein sits at the center, her tone commanding:
“Art must be exact. You do not describe the world—you recreate its structure. A writer who cannot shape form is no writer at all.”

Picasso, lighting a cigarette, laughs:
“Form is only alive if it breaks. Too much discipline is just another prison.”

You notice Hemingway leaning forward, eyes sharp:
“You both miss it. It’s not about form or rebellion. It’s about truth. One true sentence is worth more than any painting on these walls.”

Stein smirks, but doesn’t answer. The tension crackles. You jot down fragments, feeling the tug-of-war between control and chaos.

When the salon disperses, you step into the quieter Paris streets. Late afternoon sunlight gilds the Seine, and you find yourself in a more intimate setting: Anaïs Nin’s apartment. The energy is different—gentler, almost secretive. She pours tea, opens her diary, and begins to read passages aloud, her voice like silk.

Anaïs Nin: “To confess is to free oneself, Nick. The page is a mirror that demands honesty. Do you dare to show yourself as you truly are?”

You feel her words strike deeper than Stein’s lecture. While Stein demands structure, Nin demands vulnerability.

Then Henry Miller, sprawled on a chair, bursts in with his usual brash laughter.
Miller: “Don’t let Stein’s holy temple fool you. Art isn’t a shrine—it’s a whorehouse, a battlefield, a street corner at midnight! If you’re not bleeding on the page, you’re writing lies.”

You realize the contrast couldn’t be sharper: Stein’s polished intellectualism, Nin’s quiet psychological excavation, Miller’s raw revolt. And here you are, caught between them, absorbing both worlds—polished form and unruly passion.

The sun begins to fade, and with it, Paris seems to split into two versions of itself:

  • One of salons, paintings, and intellectual precision.

  • Another of intimate diaries, raw desires, and dangerous honesty.

And you, Nick Sasaki, are beginning to see that perhaps your gift is not choosing one—but living in both.

Part 3 — Late Afternoon: The Studios and the Streets

The sunlight slants gold across Montparnasse as you step into Picasso’s studio. Canvases are everywhere—unfinished, slashed, layered, as if the walls themselves were restless. Picasso smears paint on a canvas while arguing with himself in Spanish.

Picasso (without looking up):
“Nick, form must fight. If a painting is polite, it is dead. Do not trust beauty unless it cuts.”

You move on to Modigliani’s studio nearby. The air is thick with turpentine and melancholy. He paints elongated faces that seem to float out of time. He pauses, looking at you with tired eyes:
Modigliani: “Everyone paints what they see. I paint what aches. If you want truth, paint the ache. Write the ache.”

Then, as if to balance sorrow with dream, you visit Marc Chagall. His studio bursts with light, lovers floating above Paris rooftops, animals playing violins in the sky.
Chagall (smiling): “Paris is real, yes. But Paris of the heart is larger. Do not only write the city as it is—write the city as it dreams.”

The three artists’ voices swirl together—Picasso’s violence, Modigliani’s sadness, Chagall’s tenderness. You carry their contradictions like a secret weight.

Stepping back into the street, you don’t walk long before Henry Miller finds you, his laughter spilling louder than the traffic.
Miller: “Forget Picasso and his games, Nick. Forget Stein and her commandments. Look around you—the beggar, the whore, the drunk, the saints of the gutter. That’s Paris! That’s life! And that’s where art lives.”

And just behind him, Anaïs Nin appears, her diary clasped as always. She leans close, her voice softer but more piercing:
Anaïs Nin: “They all speak of form, of style, of vision. But what of desire? What of the parts of yourself you hide? To live in Paris is not only to paint or write—it is to reveal.”

The contrast is dizzying: Stein’s world of salons and canvases versus Miller and Nin’s feverish dive into the raw, unfiltered human heart. As the late afternoon light fades, you realize you are learning to walk a tightrope—between the discipline of the mind and the confession of the soul.

Part 4 — Evening: Jazz and Cabaret Debates

The streets of Montmartre glow with neon and lantern light. You step into Le Boeuf sur le Toit, a cabaret thrumming with American jazz. The air is thick with smoke, sweat, and the syncopated beat of a saxophone that makes the whole room sway.

At a long table near the stage, the tribes of Paris have gathered almost by accident.

Gertrude Stein, immovable as ever, sits upright with a glass of wine, dissecting the rhythm of the music.
Stein: “Jazz is like Cubism—it breaks reality into pieces. But do not confuse chaos with innovation. It must have structure.”

Across from her, Henry Miller is already shouting over the music, pounding the table with his fist.
Miller: “Structure? To hell with structure! Look at this place—people sweating, shouting, loving, bleeding in the open. That is art. Jazz doesn’t ask permission. Neither should we.”

The music swells, and Hemingway leans in, lighting a cigarette.
Hemingway: “Both of you talk too much. The music works because it’s clean. No tricks, no fat. Just rhythm and truth. That’s writing, too.”

The debate grows louder, until Picasso throws up his hands, laughing.
Picasso: “You’re all wrong. Jazz is like painting with sound. One moment it’s broken glass, the next it’s light through a window. It’s alive because it never apologizes.”

You feel the tension pulling the table apart. And then, softly, Anaïs Nin speaks. Her words don’t fight, they pierce.
Anaïs Nin: “You all argue about art as if it were a thing. But art is not in the paint, the sentence, the song. Art is in the intimacy between souls. What we hide from each other—that is where art waits to be born.”

The room falls into a brief hush, even as the trumpet blasts. Her words hang there, heavier than the smoke. For a moment, Stein looks unsettled, Hemingway stares into his drink, Miller smirks like he’s been vindicated, and Picasso sketches on a napkin as if he has stolen the silence.

And you, Nick, sit at the table, realizing you are living at the intersection of all these worlds. The café from the morning, the salons of the afternoon, the studios at twilight—they all converge here in the music.

Jazz carries them all forward, whether they admit it or not.

Part 5 — Midnight: Walk Along the Seine

The cabaret empties slowly, its floor sticky with spilled wine and its tables littered with cigarette butts and sketches on napkins. Outside, Paris breathes more softly now. The laughter fades into the alleys, leaving only the distant hum of a saxophone carried on the night air.

You walk with Henry Miller, who is still laughing, drunk on wine and the chaos of the evening. He slaps you on the back, his voice echoing down the cobblestones.
Miller: “You see, Nick? This city is a whorehouse and a cathedral at once. Forget the critics—just live it. Write it. Don’t ever sanitize it.”

He veers off toward another bar, swallowed into the shadows.

A block away, you notice Anaïs Nin walking more slowly, diary pressed close. She stops under a streetlamp and looks at you.
Anaïs Nin: “Henry is fire, but fire alone can burn you to ash. You must also know the tenderness of water. Do not only write the world as spectacle, Nick—write it as confession. Write the silence between breaths.”

Her eyes linger on you before she disappears into the night, her shadow merging with the Seine’s black shimmer.

Further along the boulevard, you catch sight of Gertrude Stein leaving with Picasso. She is lecturing even now, her hands slicing the air.
Stein (to Picasso, but loud enough for you to hear): “Form is not a choice, it is necessity. If Nick learns that, he may yet endure.”
Picasso only grins, pulling a fresh sketch from his pocket, muttering in Spanish about breaking everything she just said. Their silhouettes vanish beneath the glow of Rue de Fleurus.

You continue alone now, the cobblestones cold beneath your shoes, the air sharp with midnight chill. The Seine glimmers, a mirror of the fractured day. You pause on the Pont Neuf, leaning over the railing.

The echoes arrive, each voice threading into the dark:

  • Stein’s demand for structure.

  • Hemingway’s insistence on truth stripped bare.

  • Picasso’s embrace of chaos as creation.

  • Miller’s roar for life unfiltered.

  • Nin’s whisper for confession and intimacy.

And in the stillness, you realize something: Paris is not asking you to choose between them. It is asking you to carry them all—discipline and desire, intellect and intimacy, chaos and clarity—like notes in the same jazz chord.

The bells of Notre Dame ring faintly in the distance. You pull your coat tighter, notebook in hand, and walk deeper into the night, knowing this city has already begun to change you forever.

Final Thoughts by Sylvia Beach

When the lamps of Paris dim and the Seine carries its golden reflections into the dark, the voices do not vanish. They echo. Stein’s demand for form, Hemingway’s faith in truth, Picasso’s chaotic laughter, Miller’s raw defiance, Nin’s intimate confessions—each one lingers in the midnight air.

Nick Sasaki walked home across the Pont Neuf, notebook in hand, carrying with him the impossible task of choosing between them. Yet perhaps that was never the point. Paris did not ask him to choose; it asked him to bear witness, to let all the voices live together in one chorus.

That is how I remember Paris of the 1920s: a city not of answers, but of collisions. And to live it fully, as Nick did, was to let those collisions make a music of their own.

Short Bios:

Gertrude Stein
American writer, art collector, and salon host in Paris whose gatherings nurtured modernist giants like Picasso, Hemingway, and Matisse. Known for her experimental prose and influential literary mentorship.

Ernest Hemingway
American novelist and journalist, part of the “Lost Generation.” In Paris, he honed his terse, powerful style that later shaped classics like The Sun Also Rises and A Farewell to Arms.

James Joyce
Irish writer whose groundbreaking novel Ulysses was published in Paris in 1922. His stream-of-consciousness style revolutionized modern literature.

Pablo Picasso
Spanish painter and sculptor, co-founder of Cubism. In Paris, he created some of his most influential works, constantly pushing the boundaries of modern art.

Amedeo Modigliani
Italian painter and sculptor in Montparnasse, known for his distinctive elongated portraits and tragic, bohemian life.

Marc Chagall
Russian-French artist, celebrated for his dreamlike paintings filled with floating figures, folkloric imagery, and radiant colors.

Henry Miller
American novelist, known for works like Tropic of Cancer, blending autobiography, philosophy, and raw depictions of sexuality. His Paris years defined his rebellious literary voice.

Anaïs Nin
French-Cuban writer and diarist, famous for her intimate journals and explorations of sexuality and the psyche. Her relationship with Miller shaped both their works.

Josephine Baker
American-born performer who rose to fame in 1920s Paris as a dancer and singer. She became a symbol of the Jazz Age and an icon of glamour, resilience, and freedom.

Sylvia Beach
American bookseller and publisher, founder of Shakespeare and Company in Paris. She famously published James Joyce’s Ulysses and became a central figure of the expatriate literary scene.

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Filed Under: Friendship, Lifestyle and Culture, Literature, Spirituality Tagged With: Anaïs Nin confessions, Anaïs Nin diary, Anaïs Nin Paris, bohemian Paris 1920, Gertrude Stein Picasso, Gertrude Stein salon, Hemingway Lost Generation, Hemingway Paris life, Henry Miller art life, Henry Miller Paris, Lost Generation Paris, Montmartre nightlife 1920, Montparnasse 1920, Paris 1920, Paris 1920 writers, Paris artists 1920, Paris bohemian history, Paris cafes writers, Paris jazz age, Picasso Paris 1920, Picasso studio Paris

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